Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Gardens
Every 20 minutes or so, an older diesel-powered train pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as storm clouds gather.
It is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just north of the city town centre.
"I've seen individuals concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."
The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who make wine from four hidden urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and allotments throughout the city. The project is sufficiently underground to have an official name so far, but the group's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.
Urban Vineyards Across the Globe
To date, the grower's plot is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which features better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of Paris's historic artistic district neighbourhood and over 3,000 vines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them all over the globe, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens help cities stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect open space from development by establishing long-term, yielding farming plots inside urban environments," says the association's president.
Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a result of the earth the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, community, environment and heritage of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.
Mystery Eastern European Variety
Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast once more. "This is the mystery Eastern European variety," he comments, as he removes damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Activities Across the City
Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about fifty vines. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."
Grant, fifty-two, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."
Terraced Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has established more than one hundred fifty vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Today, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from rows of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an old way of making wine."
"When I tread the grapes, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces into the liquid," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers add preservatives to kill the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."
Challenging Environments and Inventive Approaches
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. However it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole problem faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on